Master this flashy baitfish imitation to target trophy fish in the cold winter waters of the Pacific Northwest.
Words, images, and fly tied by Ryan May

The Ghost Bugger is a popular seasonal variant of the timeless Woolly Bugger pattern. With its all-white coloration and added flash, it excels in winter fishing by mimicking the baitfish that cruise around during colder months, such as shad or smelt.
Its weighted design provides lifelike, fluid movement in the water while simultaneously allowing it to quickly reach deep into tidal pools and drop-offs – ideal for enticing sluggish fish in chilly temperatures.
This version does not use wire ribbing, but you can easily add it for an even faster sink. Here’s how to twist one up in 5 minutes or less…
Why the Ghost Bugger Works in Puget Sound
This pattern, along with other white patterns, works especially well in Puget Sound this time of year. The white color and pearl flash closely mimic baitfish such as sand lance, herring, and sculpin, which are primary forage for sea-run cutthroat trout and coho salmon.
Given the low-light and overcast conditions common in winter and early spring, the added flash from the pearl cactus chenille and tinsel makes the fly highly visible, helping it stand out in the water column.
Fishing Tips for Puget Sound
Slow, erratic strips to mimic an injured baitfish.
Longer pauses to let the fly suspend and flutter naturally in the current.
Weighted versions work best in deeper drop-offs and stronger tidal currents.
Use an intermediate or sink-tip line to get the fly down into the strike zone.
The Ghost Bugger fly is a top choice for Puget Sound fishing this winter, especially if you plan on exploring the many tidal flats, estuaries, or rocky points throughout Washington state. For topwater action, consider throwing a Miyawaki Popper, or for deeper water, try a Clouser Minnow tied in white and pearl.

Materials List
Hook: Streamer hook, size 4 to 10 (Mustad 3407 or similar)
Thread: 140 denier white (Ultra Thread or UTC)
Eyes: Silver dumbbell eyes (Medium or Large, depending on sink rate)
Tail: White marabou
Flash: 2 to 4 strands of pearl tinsel (Krystal Flash or Flashabou)
Body: Hareline Cactus Chenille Large (Pearl)
Weight (Optional): Hareline Lead-Free Wire (to increase sink rate)
Head Cement: Clear lacquer or UV resin for durability
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Secure the Hook in the Vise
Place the streamer hook in your vise, ensuring the shank is level.
De-barb the hook, if necessary, using the jaws of your vice or a pair of flat nose pliers.
Step 2: Start the Thread Base
Attach the 140 denier white thread at the index point, just behind the eye of the hook.
Wrap a smooth thread base back to the hook bend.
Step 3 (Optional): Add Weight with Lead-Free Wire
If you want a faster sink rate, wrap 6 to 10 turns of Hareline Lead-Free Wire around the front third of the hook shank.
Secure the wire in place by building up a dam on either end with thread wraps before moving to the next step.
Step 4: Attach the Dumbbell Eyes
Position the silver dumbbell eyes about 1/4 of the way back from the hook eye.
Use a figure-eight wrapping technique to secure them.
Apply a drop of head cement or UV resin to strengthen the wraps.
Step 5: Tie in the Marabou Tail
Select a clump of white marabou, roughly 1.5 times the length of the hook shank.
Tie it in at the bend of the hook, making sure it flows smoothly backward.
Wrap the excess marabou down along the shank to create a smooth underbody.

Step 6: Add Flash to the Tail
Cut 2 to 4 strands of pearl tinsel and tie them in at the tail base.
Distribute them evenly on both sides of the tail.
Trim the flash so it extends slightly beyond the marabou.
Step 7: Attach the Cactus Chenille
Strip a quarter inch of fibers from the end of the Hareline Cactus Chenille Large (Pearl) to expose the core.
Tie in the bare chenille core at the base of the tail.
Step 8: Wrap the Cactus Chenille Forward
Wrap the chenille forward in tight, slightly overlapping yet even turns, covering the hook shank completely.
Stop wrapping just behind the dumbbell eyes and secure it with thread wraps.
Trim the excess chenille.
Step 9: Build the Thread Head
Wrap additional thread around the dumbbell eyes then between the dumbbell eyes and the eye of the hook to neaten the head area.
Whip finish the thread and cut it.
Step 10: Apply Head Cement
Add head cement or UV resin to secure the thread wraps and increase durability. A UV resin like Loon’s UV Clear Fly Finish will give you a little extra visibility in the water.

Fishing Tips for the Ghost Bugger Fly on Puget Sound
The Ghost Bugger is a deadly pattern for sea-run cutthroat and coho salmon in Puget Sound.
Slow, pulsing retrieves make the fly appear more lifelike.
If fishing in deeper channels or strong currents, consider using Hareline Lead-Free Wire and heavier dumbbell eyes to get the fly down quicker and to greater depths.
Experiment with longer pauses to allow the fly to hover naturally.
Pair this fly with an intermediate or sink-tip line for the best depth control.
By keeping this fly in your box, along with patterns like the Miyawaki Popper for topwater action and Clouser Minnow for deeper water, you'll be well-prepared for winter and early spring fishing in the Puget Sound.
Tight lines and warm feet!
Comments