Suggestions for how you can get started with the right gear, walk up to any lake, and be confident that you’re prepared
Not all writers are good fishermen. Conversely, not all fishermen are good writers. Keeping this in mind, I am not an “expert,” but I have fly fished for many years. In this article, I’m focusing on lake fishing because that is what I like to do.
If you’re new to fly fishing or to lake fishing, also known as stillwater fishing, I hope to offer a few tips that will lead you to success.
First off, think of your fly fishing gear as an extension of your arm. We start with the rod, then the reel. Next is the fly line, leader, and tippet. Then finally, our fly. We’ll cover each aspect of your gear in that order.
So, let’s begin with some rod options that work best on any lake here in Washington (and just about anywhere else for that matter).
STEP 1: Choose your rod
The first step to success is to select the correct tackle for the lake to be fished. In general, I prefer a 5- or 6-weight for a 9-foot rod. By weight, I mean that a line will match the rod by its weight category. The reason I often choose a 9-foot rod with these weights is that it casts better in wind.
Something like a 4-weight rod, or lighter, can cast smaller flies for a more delicate presentation. But these are tougher when trying to manage your line in winds as little as 10 mph. Additionally, I prefer a heavy rod and line so as not to tire the fish out as much. This helps ensure it will be better able to survive upon release.
For materials, I like graphite rods. They’re strong and light. Don’t go cheap, because these rods can last you a lifetime. Rods in the price range of a St. Croix or Echo work quite well. Depending on whether you’re able to find them on sale, you can expect to pay in the $90 to $400 range for one of these rods.
When you’re just starting out, don’t be tempted to spend too much on a rod. In the warm and friendly glow of your local fly shop, it’s easy to overboard. Brands like Sage make great equipment and you can easily grow into it. But you don’t need to spend anywhere near that to get on the water and catch fish.
“I prefer a heavy rod and line so as not to tire the fish out as much.”
STEP 2: Select your line
As I mentioned earlier, you’ll pair your line with the weight of the rod. Since I prefer a 5- or 6-weight rod, I lean toward medium lines like 5- or 6-weight. These lines are ideal for casting bigger flies, such as Woolly Buggers or leech patterns. These are two of the go-to flies you’ll use on a lake, especially when trolling.
A tapered weight forward line is best for longer casts or windy conditions. I like to be prepared with three lines when fishing a lake. More often than not, I’ll switch lines during the day to reach fish depending on where they are in the water column.
The three lines I take with me are:
Floating line which works well for Chironomids or dry flies and fish that are feeding off the surface
Intermediate line for nymphs or streamers and fish that are swimming around a drop-off or ledge in the mid-range of the water column
Deep sinking line for Woolly Buggers and when fish are near the bottom, which they frequently are on hot days
STEP 3: Find a reel you’re comfortable with
Quick test: if I’m fishing three lines, how many reels do I need? Yep, three. You’d never want to take the time to respool a fly line in the wild. So I take three reels, loaded with the lines mentioned above.
Fly reels are mainly just used to hold the fly line. That said, size does make a difference here. I prefer one with a large arbor (reel diameter) for several reasons.
First, it offers a greater line capacity. Second, this larger diameter increases my ability to retrieve the line with fewer turns of the handle. And finally, this quick retrieve goes back to what we talked about earlier. It gets the fish to your net faster and reduces the chance of tiring that fish out.
Like your rod, don’t overspend. You can find decent reels made by the manufacturers I mentioned for $45 to $140. Buy a rod and reel in a package and the per-item cost goes down even further. You’ll often get a decent fly line along with it.
One more word about reels. Good drag is important for the occasional lunker (a.k.a. BIG fish). A strong or healthy fish can take your line all the way down to the backing if it decides it wants to fight. A good drag system, tightened down to your comfort level in advance, keeps things from getting too out of hand if you’re taken by surprise.
"Good drag is important for the occasional lunker."
STEP 4: Match your leader and tippet
At the end of your fly line, you have leader and tippet. A new leader straight from the package can be used on its own. Tie a fly on the end and you’re ready to go. But as you change (or lose) flies, you’ll slowly chip away at the length of your leader. This is where tippet comes in.
Tippet replaces the line taken off your leader, allowing your leader to last indefinitely.
For leaders, I usually go with a 3X or 4X fluorocarbon in 7½- or 9-foot lengths. The lower the X value, the heavier the leader material.
For example, a 3X leader often has a diameter of .008 inches and a breaking strength of roughly 8 pounds. In comparison, an 8X leader is usually .003 inches in diameter and has a breaking strength of less than 2 pounds. Similar to fly lines, heavier leaders help get the fish in quicker.
To the end of my leader, I attach fluorocarbon tippet material in 3X, 4X, or 5X depending on weed cover and size of the fish I am pursuing.
STEP 5: Attach your fly
Fish are finicky. What’s hot on a Tuesday afternoon won’t even get you a sideways glance on a Wednesday morning. This often has to do with the bugs that are hatching around the lake.
For this reason, I have a box of searching patterns that I use for fishing new lakes. This box contains Black Wooly Buggers in various sizes, Thin Mints, Olive Willies, Carey Specials, Nyerges Nymphs and Stillwater Nymphs.
The many forms of Chironomids, Bionic worms, and Balanced Leaches work well for stillwater fishing as well.
If something isn’t working, don’t hesitate to try something new. Be mindful of your surroundings. What bugs do you see? With the recommendations above, chances are good you’ll have something similar in your fly box to try.
Additional tips for lake fishing
Once you’ve acquired all your gear, try to find a local lake to practice on. This allows you to hone your casting and knot-tying skills before committing to a longer trip. Lake Ballinger will suffice. You don’t even need boat. You can easily fish from shore or the pier.
Clean and inspect your lines for wear at the end of each season. Lines used in lakes usually last a long time unless they get tangled in a boat motor. (That's the only one I’ve ever needed to replace.)
For additional help, our club members are willing to point you in the right direction for whatever you might need. Also, the crew at the Avid Angler will be happy to offer further advice on equipment and fly selection.
And if you do decide to fish Ballinger, keep an eye out for me. My favorite method on Lake Ballinger is to troll a size 10 Thin Mint behind an intermediate line.
Tight lines!
Bill Lundin lives with his family in Edmonds and has been a member of OFF since 2020. He has fished on a fly for more than 70 years after catching his first wild, 15-inch rainbow trout in Walla Walla at age 6. When the fish aren’t biting, you’ll find him capturing the beauty of his surroundings through photography. He recently spent several months chronicling the benches of Edmonds in a photo essay published in segments on social media.
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